Senin, 18 Juli 2011

Bad BDA

Andrew Cavelli of Adelaide's Quickco Motorsport has been a Ford fan from way back. He's also had a heap of experience in modifying and race-preparing Escorts for both himself and his customers. Around mid-1998, Andrew bought a 1970 Escort 2-door with the intention of replicating a BDA racecar and competing in 'Classic Rally' style tarmac events.
Those unfamiliar with the mechanical pedigree of the all-conquering Escorts of the '70s might be asking - so what's a BDA Escort, anyway? Fast-rewind back to the early Sixties. Ford in the UK wanted more power from their Cortina engine and decided to use a Lotus-designed twin cam, 8-valve head on the Ford four. The Lotus Cortina was the result - a fast little car that performed well on both the road and the track. When the Escort replaced the Cortina, the engine made the jump into the new body. But while the Lotus twin cam was a huge success, by this time its power output limit had been reached. Enter Cosworth with another head for the 1600 Ford block - this time a 4 valves per cylinder jobbie christened the BDA.

The initials were in reference to the hi-po car's engine twin cams being belt driven ('BD'), while the 'A' simply identified it as the Series A. The engine used solid skirt flat top pistons to give a high compression ratio of 10.0:1 and the Cosworth-designed aluminium head featured valves that sat at 45 degree incline, forming a semi-hemispherical combustion chamber. The intake manifold was cast integrally and was designed to accept a choice of either dual Weber 40DCOE/48 carbs or Dellorto 40 DHLA/Es.
After Cosworth finished integrating the package, it gave an impressive 115hp at 6500rpm and a torque peak of 112ft-lb at 4000. It could sprint the 'Type 49' Escort to 60mph in around 8.5 seconds. But what was most relevant was its tuning potential in motorsport. By enlarging valve sizes, changing the cams and slightly raising the compression ratio, a lot more power was released. All right then, the BDA was a pretty potent piece of machinery...

The engine fitted to the car that you see here is the Cosworth-Ford BDA twin-cam, but the displacement in this beast has grown from 1600 to 1800cc. Assembled by both Andrew and his co-driver Mike Dale, the bottom-end now uses the latest and greatest billet steel crank that delivers a stroke of 82mm. The bores are 83.5mm in diameter and in these slide forged Omega pistons that push the compression ratio up to 12.5:1. Steel Carillo-style 'H-beam' conrods are bolted together with ARP items. Vandervel rings and bearings are used throughout the engine.
A Formula Ford dry sump system ensures the are no oil surge problems inside the engine, and also relieves a few more ponies due to the lack of crankshaft windage. Also on the topic of engine safety, a custom one-off aluminium radiator keeps a lid on the twin-cam's fever. The work-of-art Cosworth head got treated to a pair of Kent billet cams that deliver a total of 400 thou lift and definitely give the car a purposeful idle. While the head was off, it underwent some mandatory porting and polishing (enough to flow 265hp) and was treated to moderately larger valves - an effective modification as proven in the 1970's rally scene.

Equally competition-oriented is the raunchy induction system which uses twin 45mm Webers mounted on the standard RS intake manifold. A pair of Carter pumps located in the boot provide a 6psi fuel supply to the carburettors. To achieve the best results, the carbs have been thoroughly tuned and re-jetted while the car was strapped down on a chassis dyno. The ignition side of things is taken care of by a high energy ignition with a magnetic pick-up, plus Top Gun leads and NGK '7' spark plugs inside the combustion chamber. On the exhaust side of the head, there's a custom set of hand made tuned-length extractors that use 1¾ -inch primaries flowing into a mandrel bent 2½ -inch system with a single muffler.

So how much power has been pulled from this little Pommy Ford four pot? Andrew has had the car dyno'd at Turbo Tune and seen 125kW (167.5hp) at the wheels - which has been translated by the guys to around 164kW (220hp) at the flywheel! Mike says the engine was built more for torque than outright power, but 220hp sure isn't anything to be sneezed at in a 900-odd kg (1980lb) car!
Backing the strong four is a twin-plate AP racing clutch and pressure plate, plus a Quickco steel flywheel which transfers torque to a 5-speed Quaife gearbox containing straight-cut close-ratio gears. The standard RS1600 hydraulic clutch actuation has been fitted. Such an elaborate Quaife gearbox set-up is unlikely to ever give problems!

Putting the 1800's mumbo to the tarmac is a competition-style full floating ZF LSD (commonly dubbed the 'baby atlas') spinning a 4.6:1 ratio. To the centre of the diff connect billet Romac axles which reach outward to a special Quickco rear brake conversion kit. This comprises 280mm solid discs and single piston calipers, while at the front are the reputable AP 4 pot calipers biting massive 300mm vented discs. A racing set of carbon/metallic pads gives the braking system the desired stopping abilities.
No brake booster is used, as there is a Quickco adjustable pedal box along with a brake balance bar control located inside the cabin. A brake booster is not as effective in this type of car, as at any one time there can be minimal engine vacuum available to assist the pedal. But to aid tight corner manoeuvres, a hydraulic handbrake helps Andrew to tuck the nose in and step the back end out.
Designed for tarmac use, the suspension setting is usually very low, but in the photos shown here the car has been raised about 2 inches. It uses adjustable Koni shocks front and rear, a front Quickco adjustable short-stroke coil-over arrangement plus an alloy anti-dive kit also at the front. At the front, around 2-2½ degrees of negative camber is dialed in along with about 1mm of toe-in and 3½ degrees positive castor. Atop each strut tower rests a spherical bearing to replace the original rubbers, which don't offer the same amount of driver control.
The rear end is made up of a Quickco fabricated system that includes single leaf springs, two top radius arms and an adjustable Panhard rod to maintain the correct geometry. The rear shock towers have also been turreted to achieve the correct shocker angle. The car rides on a set of Performance 14x7 alloy wheels wearing 205/60 Falken GRBs for maximum possible traction.

On-board is a typical example of a purebred racecar - nothing that's unnecessary has been spared the flick! The standard "double bubble" dashboard remains in place and contains a comprehensive array of gauges, while fronting the front seat passenger is a Terratrip rally computer, Halda rally Tripmaster and various switches. Andrew and co-driver Mike sit in a pair of carbon fibre/Kevlar Velo GP200 race seats and communicate on the Terraphone intercom system while being safely strapped in by 6-point OMP harnesses.

There's also that serious looking Safety Devices steel roll cage installed with extra strengthening added. In addition, there's a fire extinguisher system installed to the car, with two nozzles inside the cabin and another two under the bonnet - intended to save the Cosworth gem in the event of a fire. To keep the feel of the era when the original cars stood in the spotlight, the car has been sprayed in BDA Escort period colours: they came in either white, white or white! Within the boot resides the battery (as it could no longer be fitted in BDA Escort engine bay), along with a 60-litre fuel tank containing 100 octane and the dry sump system components.

After the exhaustive transformation of what was originally a stock-standard Escort (remember?), had been completed, it was booted straight out into the rough-and-tough of competition. Realistically aiming to manage only a Top 10 placing, Andrew and co-driver Mike Dale were only too pleased to learn they had what it took to convincingly maul the opposition in the annual Adelaide Classic Rally. Against Ferrari V12s, a V8 Iso Rivolta, Falcon GTs and other classic performance cars, the Escort just wiped them!
Then it was off to the Mallala circuit where we photographed the car in action. Even though the car had never been raced there before, it was soon reeling off low 1.21/1.22s, a time comparable to some of the vastly experienced club racers that make it out there at every meeting...
Huh? Isn't a car supposed to gradually work its way to the top?!

Jumat, 15 Juli 2011

How to Fix Tire Cupping

There is little that's more uncomfortable than your car shaking down the road as you drive. A big part of a comfortable ride is based on your tires' wear pattern. Tire cupping is an uneven wear pattern that looks like little dips all the way around the tread area. The cause of tire cupping can vary, but if it's not too severe it can be fixed.

Instructions :

1. Park your car on a level surface and set the emergency brake.

2. Examine your tires one by one to see which tires are cupped.

3. Push down on the vehicle fender area next to each cupped tire. If the vehicle continues to bounce up and down more than once after you release it, it is likely that shocks are the reason for the cupping.

4. Take the vehicle to the auto repair shop and have them change the shocks. Then have the shop put the cupped tires on the rear of the car until they wear smooth again. If the cupping is too severe, the tire shop may be able to use a tire-shaving machine to even them out.

5. Look for cupping on the front tires. If the cupping is on the inside or outside of the tread, mis-alignment of the front end is the likely cause. Take the vehicle to the auto repair shop and have them rotate the tires to put the best on the front and perform an alignment.

6. Ask the auto repair shop to balance the tires. Many times cupping can be caused by tires being out of balance.

Activities to Promote Safe Driving

Traffic accidents kill young drivers and their passengers more than any other age group, partly because kids don't have the experience that older drivers have and also because kids do mindless things when they drive, sometimes due to peer pressure or just lack of awareness. Distractions such as cell phones, eating, grooming, talking, texting and fiddling with the radio can cause automobile crashes. Wearing seat belts can save lives in accidents. Driver education and practice make safe drivers. To promote safe driving at your high school or transportation business, plan safe-driving activities that call attention to these facts.
  1. Pledges

    • According to the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT), distracted-driving accidents killed 5,474 people and injured approximately 448,000 more in 2009. Encourage your employees or students to pledge that they won't drive while distracted. This means no text-messaging, talking on the phone, eating, grooming, watching videos or fiddling with maps, radios or friends while driving. You can focus your group's pledge around just one of these distractions, such as texting. Dedicate a wall or display case to your pledge, and personalize the pledges, giving urgency to those who make the pledge. When a new person takes the pledge, put her picture up in the case. Or have her sign her name to a car-shaped piece of paper and post it on a wall.

    Demolished Vehicle

    • Park a demolished vehicle in the parking lot of your business or school campus. Allow employees and students to see the dire consequences of unsafe driving behaviors such as drinking and driving, not paying attention to the road or driving at extreme speeds. To make sure drivers truly get the message about unsafe driving, invite a member of Mothers Against Drunk Driving (MADD) to give a speech in front of the totaled vehicle about the importance of good decision-making and safe driving practices.

    Golf Cart Driving Course

    • Create a golf-cart driving course in a parking lot or on a campus using orange cones and handmade traffic signs. Workers or students can drive through the course, ensuring they observe all the traffic signs they encounter. To make the course more difficult, call or text the driver's cell phone. Pair them with partners who talk to them nonstop. Instruct them to read a map and drive at the same time. As drivers try to concentrate on the course -- and perhaps run over a few cones -- they will realize how dangerous these types of distractions are.

    Traffic Sign Game

    • Safe drivers know the meanings of and proper responses to all traffic signs that they encounter. Test drivers' knowledge with a traffic sign game. Construct a variety of homemade traffic signs, or blow up pictures of real road signs. Include simple signs such as stop, yield, one-way, railroad crossing, deer crossing and winding road. Hold up the sign and have people yell out the answer. Or, divide the drivers into two teams: One member of a team competes against a member of the other team to see who can identify each sign first.

How to Go Fast in the Rain

Most experts recommend driving more slowly than usual when it is raining due to decreased visibility and the increased likelihood of skidding. However, some professional racers must drive during poor weather conditions, including heavy rain. To drive quickly, and safely, during the rain you must turn and slow your car in the proper fashion. Though this process is safe on a closed course such as a race track, it is not safe on city streets or highways.

Instructions :

1. Replace your current tires with rain tires. Replace your windshield wipers with new wipers and turn them to their maximum speed.

2. Turn your headlights on, even in well-lit conditions.

3. Drive toward the center of the road. If you are driving on a four- or six-lane road, drive in the middle lane or the lane to the far right.

4.Alter your trajectory when you turn to keep your tuns at the appropriate angle. Typically, the slip angle in the rain is between 6 and 10 degrees, meaning your tire turns 6 to 10 degrees more than normal. Turn your wheel gently. If you feel the car turning toward the wrong trajectory, correct it by straightening the wheel. Do not jerk the wheel in the opposite direction.

5. Ease off the gas when your trajectory changes. This helps slow the speed and rate of your turn. Always take your foot off the gas instead of pressing on the brake, if you do not need to stop. Pressing on the brake during the rain increases the chance of your car skidding or spinning out of control.

6. Brake gently, if you must brake, and step on the brake one to three seconds earlier than usual.

7. Return your foot to the accelerator once you straighten your wheels.

8. Tap the brake after you drive past a puddle. This helps dry off your rotors.

How to Safely Maneuver Into a Lane

When driving on the open road, you need to pay attention to other drivers, obstacles in the road, pedestrians and road workers. When maneuvering your vehicle into another lane you must take notice of the cars currently traveling in that lane, as cutting them off could prove dangerous. Following a basic set of guidelines anytime you maneuver into another lane can greatly reduce the chances of causing an accident.

1. Turn on the turn signal indicating your intent to maneuver into the lane.

2.Check ahead in the lane you in which you intend to maneuver. Make certain there are no stopped vehicles,  obstacles or pedestrians in the lane.

3.Look in the rear-view and side-view mirrors to make certain the lane is clear of other vehicles.

4.Look over your shoulder quickly, towards the lane you intend to turn into, and check the areas that your mirrors do not show. These are known as "blind spots."

5.Turn your steering wheel toward the lane you would like to maneuver into, if the lane is clear. Move into the lane quickly, but as carefully as possible. Spend a minimal amount of time between the two lanes.

6.Straighten the steering wheel and turn your turn signal off.

Safe Driving Checklist

According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, motor vehicle crashes are the main cause of death among the five to thirty four demographic in the U.S. Apart from the emotional toll, the economic impact of crash-related deaths and injuries among drivers and their passengers was $70 billion in 2005. Accidents can be minimized by following safe driving checklists.

  1. Obey the Law

    • It is the duty and responsibility of every driver to drive within speed limits and obey all traffic signals and signs. Follow safety guidelines by obeying rules such as not overtaking a stopped school bus, yielding to drivers who have the right of way,and also signaling your intentions before trying to pass or overtake any vehicle. It is against the law to drive under the influence of alcohol and fasten your seatbelt.

    Driving Preparation Tips

    • Adjust the mirrors before starting your car, even if you are only going on a short trip. Position your seat and head restraints to reduce whiplash injuries in case of any sudden abrupt application of the break. Secure loose objects in your car that may cause distractions, such as soda cans or luggage. Check your fuel level to ensure that you have enough fuel for your trip.

    Drive Safely and Defensively

    • Never tailgate and always give the car in front of you at least three seconds of space, to allow for enough time for you to react and apply the brakes in an emergency. Do not engage in road rage as this is illegal and can lead to charges of reckless driving. Be aware of your surroundings and stay alert to potholes, people, animals, cyclists and debris. At night, dim your headlights for those in front of you.

    Bad Weather Precautions

    • Take bad weather precautions such as using wipers, defrosters, and headlights to improve visibility. Wear sunglasses when there is a lot of glare from the sun or from the snow. Always clear the snow from the roof, hood, and windows before driving and watch out for icy patches, puddles, and sudden pockets of fog. Reduce your speed when it snows and increase the distance between your car and the car in front of you. Do not make unnecessary sudden stops, sharp turns or starts and ensure that you carry out regular maintenance when due.

Drive Safe Training & Licensing

Step 1 – Learner’s permit

You must be at least 16 years of age to apply for a learner’s permit. You must first successfully complete a theory test on traffic laws and safe driving techniques before you can be issued with a learner’s permit. This permit authorises you to learn to drive as outlined in Step 2.

Step 2 - Learning to drive / ride

This is the stage where learners gain on-road driving / riding experience to develop their vehicle control, traffic assessment and safety skills before taking the Practical Driving Assessment, or Practical Riding Assessment in the case of motorcycles. You can now begin lessons with a driving instructor. This can be a licensed driving instructor or a person who currently holds (and has held for more than four years total) the same class of licence stated on your learner’s permit.
When learning to drive / ride, L plates must be displayed at all times. Learner drivers are also restricted to a maximum speed of 100 kilometres per hour.

Step 3 - Practical Driving or Practical Riding Assessment

When you have developed the ability to safely control a vehicle and are at least 16 years and 6 months old, you can undertake the appropriate practical assessment. You should gain as much driving / riding experience as you can in various road conditions and environments to ensure you pass the first time and don't have to wait for another appointment.

Step 4 - Learner driver log book

When the appropriate practical assessment has been successfully completed, you will be issued with a Learner Driver Log Book and must accumulate and record a minimum of 25 hours supervised driving / riding experience in a range of conditions. Throughout this period, you are still required to drive / ride under supervision (supervisor requirements are the same as when learning to drive / ride) and must continue to display L plates.
There is also a mandatory 6 month waiting period after passing the Practical Driving Assessment before learners can progress to Step 5.

Step 5 - Hazard Perception Test

You must be at least 17 years of age and complete all the requirements in Step 4 before you can sit the Hazard Perception Test. The computer-based test displays a series of moving traffic scenes and is used to determine a learner’s ability to assess traffic situations and to make safe driving / riding decisions. You must respond to each scene by clicking a mouse to indicate when it is safe to commence a manoeuvre or when it is necessary to take appropriate action to reduce the risk of a crash. Your response is compared to the recommended response times required to pass the test. In some situations there may not be any hazards and therefore no response will be required.

Step 6 - Provisional licence

After completing all steps of the licensing process, a provisional licence will be issued. During the provisional licence period, you must display P plates. The provisional period ends when you have held the licence for 2 years. For the first 6 months of the provisional period, drivers / riders are subject to night-time driving restrictions and must display P plates (white ‘P’ on a red background). P plates with a white ‘P’ on a green background are required to be displayed for the remainder of the provisional licence period.